Sail Training on Alcyone

I've wanted to sail on a large ship for quite a long time. When I read about the sail training on Alcyone I wanted to participate. I signed on for the Old Gaffers race in 2003. The race as set for the day before Queen's Birthday in Sidney BC. The map shows our 5 day course from Port Townsend through the San Juan Islands to Sidney and back to Port Townsend.

Day 1

Alcyone is owned and lived on by the Flanagan family. I met Sugar and Leslie at the dock. They were anxious to get out of the harbor before the tide made the passage any more difficult. After throwing our gear on our bunks and making acquaintances we started underway. There were 2 others here for sail training, Deb and Chris. We also had Darby the youngest Flanagan and their dog Kobo. Unfortunately we weren't to get to know their oldest daughter Alcye, who was staying behind for school and the Rhododendron Festival. There was not much wind so we started by motoring. After a while we got enough tail wind to use the Course and Raffee. The training consisted of Emergency procedures and equipment and tides. We were joined by another training schooner from Canada for a while. I forget her name. We had a nice bay for anchoring on the back side of San Juan Island. Sugar took some time to prepare a nice albacore for tomorrow's dinner, then we left Leslie behind to work on dinner, while the rest went ashore to do some exploring. The island was very beautiful with thick vegetation covering most if it.

Day 2

Today we are sailing to Shaw island to pick up 2 crew members that will help us with the race. Today's training was to learn the handling of the running rigging. There are around 150 pins on the fife rails to figure out. We arrived fairly early and again went ashore to visit Peter and a neighbor who will be coming with us. Peter's place was fascinating. It turns out he was apprenticed as a boat builder in his native Denmark before coming to the U.S. He has quite a boat shed and workshop. He has his own mini saw mill where he saws his own timber. He mostly does repairs to boats that are brought in on the ferry. He was replacing the ribs on one in his shop and there was another motor cruiser having an inspection. How would it be to have a shop big enough to hold two larger boats, lots of drying lumber and still have plenty of extra room. I would love to come back and just observe what happens around here. The house is a work of art that he is building like he does a boat - all with wood that he gets off the islands. Peter's wife is into gardening and has many exotic plants she nurtures. Shaw is a quaint little island with only about 150 people, a small store run by the nuns where they won't let you take too much milk in case someone else on the island might need it. It is kind of amazing that this island has ferry access at least 10 times a day. We had dinner on the boat with our new Shaw Island friends. Sugar tried out his new stainless steel barbecue grill on the Albacore. It was wonderful.

Day 3

Today was the check into Canada day. We first had to stop at Roche Harbor, so we checked into US Customs where we had our Id / Passports checked. Because of the tighter border restrictions things were taken very seriously and we were concerned about Peter, who they said might not be able to return to the U.S. if we had a raise in the security level. We learned how to do some marlinespike work. After a slow, windless traverse into the bay at Sidney we were ready for some cooling off and some recreation. Sugar showed us the "ropes" on how to really get cooled of. This water is seldom over 50°F, and when they have youth groups on the boat they are all "required" to take a dip. They actually start to enjoy it after a while. It is nice that they bring up some warm water in pots to help you warm up after. The only takers were Sugar, Darby and Chris. I was tempted, but it looked awfully cold and I'm getting a bit old for that kind of entertainment. When we arrived at the Sidney Customs station we were joined by many other boats arriving for the Old Gaffers race. The rest of the day was spent around the docks visiting with other crews and checking out their boats. Alcyone was the biggest boat and we had the end dock. It was decided that all would bring some pot luck items and all crews would have an evening get together. Most of the racers were from Port Townsend. There being about 20 total of which only about 4 were Canadians.

Day 4 (the Old Gaffers Race)

The race was to start at Sidney Harbor, to circle Gooch Island and return to the starting line for finish. During the party last night much discussion was made of the tidal conditions for the race. For this years race it had been decided to allow he captains to choose the direction they would circle Gooch island. The local knowledge spread about was that the best direction would be clockwise. The tides should be best on the far side of the island to flood us back into Sidney that direction. The start was quite exciting with everyone trying to be as close to the line, but not over, right at the start of the race. A boat the size of Alcyone can not make too many maneuvering turns. We wanted to make only one approach at the line. It was a good start for all and it was difficult to pay attention to sailing with so many other boats to observe up close. I was excited to see the main topsail thrown out. We each had our stations. Chris & I were manning the Flying Jib. Each shift in the boats or wind direction meant an adjustment of sail trim. It was difficult to watch the highest and furthest head sail, and yet be back at the main mast where the pins were located. After a while we hoisted the fisherman. A large sail flying where the fore topsail might be. This is the only sail that was original with the boat and was canvas. It comes out only on special occasions, and this race brought out everyone's best, as if to say: "Here, see what I've got, doesn't this make a pretty sight."

When the lead boats approached Gooch Island they headed North through a small channel circling clockwise as suggested. The tidal flow was going at a good clip. When we arrived there, we found we weren't' making any headway. Even though we were sailing at a fair clip the current was almost exactly equal to our movement. At times looking at the close islands you could see that we were actually going backwards. We Hoisted the Course and Raffee hoping that would help. We were able to catch up with Bryony the boat in the front of the pack. She was moving around in the channel trying to find a place where either the wind or current was in their favor. At one point we were very close, but she eventually pulled away from us. She had already had her hull cleaned twice this spring. Many thought Bryony was the boat to beat this year. Boy, she did look pretty. Slovnd was the only boat that decided to be different and go around the island the other way. She was near the end of the pack, and must have figured that she had nothing to loose trying something different. We were caught fighting in this current for over an hour, often having one boat or another come close or move away, however never actually going very far. We seemed to be in the islands wind shadow which made us all bunch up here. When we were finally starting to make some headway, Slovnd came all the way around the island and it was obvious that she was going to walk away as winner. I heard most boats giving her a heart felt cheer as she passed.

On the far side of the island we started to tack into the wind and started to heal a bit. It was a great feeling to to be sailing and moving forward again at the same time. I really enjoyed going out on the bowsprit. Bryony had disappeared, but we were in front of the rest of the pack. As we got close to Sidney we saw Slovnd and Bryony (number 1 and 2 boats) coming back to escort us to the finish line. This was thrilling - heading back in with these boats. So it was number 3 for Alcyone. Obviously with the only requirement to be in the race is to have a gaff and each boat being so different in length or type, this can make for an unfair match-up. As far as I can tell, this race is mostly done to get the gaffers together and have some fun - racing was secondary. Today was great fun, and it definitely wasn't the inherently fastest boat that won. There was luck involved, and some tactics, but it was all fun.

Briony and Slovnd escorting us to finish line

After the race was over we returned to the harbor and settled into an evening of pot luck at the Sidney Yacht Club. We sat outside and rehashed the race and tactics all night - so much for local knowledge.

Day 5

Today it is back to the good old U.S.A. Winds were light and it looks like a lot of motoring. On the way we saw some harbor seals, a Minke whale and some harbor porpoises. We needed to drop off our additional race crew for a ferry to get back to Shaw Island. Our best stop was at Friday Harbor, where we cleared customs. Here Chris tried his hand at the top brace, removing the Canadian colors. I wanted to go aloft, but I think they figured the ratlines weren't up to my weight. We had another nice harbor shower and shoved on, deciding to try to make Port Townsend today. The rest of the morning was spent doing some navigation exercises. We even turned on the radar and tried to figure that out. On the way back we took time to use the dingy to circle the boat have our own "photo op". This was our only opportunity to see Alcyone as most everyone else sees her. When you are on deck you can't get the "Big Picture". We anchored off from the Fort Worden by the Marine Science Center for the night.

Day 6

Our intent was to do some sailing around Port Townsend, but the winds didn't cooperate. We went ashore in our own dories and did some beach combing. When we got back it was time for another turn at the Tarzan swing. This time I elected to get wet, but not hang from the swing. I did a back flip off the rail and the water was really cold. We had to have Alcyone in by noon, so the rest of the morning was a rushed. It rest was a sad day with all the departures. This was definitely one great experience. I loved every minute of it. The scenery was beautiful, the boat charming, the company was pleasant and interesting, the food was delicious. It was relaxing and yet captivating. I had fun.

modified: 14 Nov 2003