| Typical steam bending
requires a steam box, boiler, and associated plumbing to keep your wood
at the temperature of steam for a period of time sufficient to allow the
wood to become plyable. The typical recommendation is 1 hour for each 3/4"
of thickness.
I steam bent
my taff rail. It was cut from 4/4 Honduras mahogany with a 2" width arc
that matched the transom of the boat. I planed the thickness down to 3/4".
I call what I did steam bending, however a purest will probably differ.
I did not want to build all the apparatus required by traditional steam
bending, so I cheated a lot. My reasoning is as follows: Steam bending
requires wet wood and heat. It also requires being able to work quickly
since every second counts when your wood is ready. What I did was:
-
Soak the taff rail in
water in the bathtub for a week. (This is excessive since keeping the water
hot and keeping the wood submerged that long was impossible)
-
Wrap the taff rail in
towels and place in a "tub" next to the transom. The tub in my case was
my kids plastic snow sled, useful since it had sides and was about the
right shape to hold the rail.
-
Heat lots of water on
the stove. I used a canning kettle and a large stock pot.
-
Slowly pour the boiling
water over the rail in the "tub". After about 20 minutes of this the rail
was very pliable.
I had concerns
about the fact that boiling water is cooler than steam and would I have
enough heat to get the required bend. The fact is that I could hardly get
the towels off, they were so hot. My taff rail had some pretty squirrelly
grain to it and I was worried that it might snap if my experiment didn't
get the wood hot enough. It worked so well that I'm sure that I could have
gotten much more bend out of the wood if necessary. I didn't submerge the
towels in water, assuming that steam from the hot water in the towels might
be better that hot water on the wood directly. In retrospect this doesn't
make a lot of sense, because I don't know how that could be hotter than
my heat source, but it worked.
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